Xi An Day 3 - Terra Cotta Warriors - 10.31

See I didn't stay at Shu Yuan just to try it out. No, the main reason was actually to be close to the Bei Ling place, around which, according to my sources, was located a news paper stand beside which stood the famous Qing Xiang's Rou Ja Mou. That was also the reason I got up at 6:15, stealthing out of the room so as not to wake the 2 other guys. Sometimes I wonder if I am crazy.

Well there was something cool and prideful about waking up before everyone else. Even the hostel staff wasn't at work yet. A pair of melt-on-the-spot kittens were snoozing away on a courtyard sofa, curled up against each other for warmth. I just wanted to crush them in a hug! Outside, the Shu Yuan alley was emptier than when I found it last night. Only a few school-bound children were making their way through.

I found the Bei Ling place, but there were no newspaper stand in front of it, and no Qing Xiang's around. A middle-aged man walking his two poodles told me to go back and make 2 rights. Soon as I made the first right, my nose picked up the unmistakable tracks of an elusive creature: fresh You Tiao! This was the only way to hunt for my favorite breakfast items now: search some backwater alleyways in the wee hours of dawn for some poor family trying to make a few coins.

The You Tiao was starchy, lacking tightness and crunch. Nevertheless I sported a big smile all the way down the street. Another right turn and more walking; I was almost going to give up when I spotted it across the street. Qing Xiang's! Already a small line of people waited at 7am. All locals. The lady in front of me was telling her friends how she would play mahjong with her out of town visitors until morning, then come to Qing Xiang to have the RJM.


There were three kinds of Rou Jia Muo on the "menu". Regular, lean, or extra meat. Going by the Schwartz rule, and the do-as-local rule, I got the regular. Basically this item was a Muo just like the Pou Muo pancake of the other night, cooked fresh off a metal dome grill, stuffed with a marinaded braised meat. Simple. They wrapped it in a brown paper and then a plastic bag. I stuffed it into my pocket to warm my hand for a little while and to help it finish drying (the pocket, not the Muo).

When I bit into the hot round thing, I knew I was having the real thing. One word, Xiang (aromatic). The Muo was Xiang, and the meat was especially tender and Xiang and full of the slow cooked goodness. Make no mistake about the meat, it was pork, I could swear on my head. I like lamb and beef and all, but nothing says chinese food like pork. And this was some good pork love.

The Wall in morning lights

8:10 I made it to the train station. Just too late for the state run bus to Qian Ling. I allowed the annoying private bus people to get me on their Qian Ling bus, but after a while it was evident that the only people on board were the driver and ticket collectors, and no one else was coming. I guessed a change of plan was in order. Just before I stepped onto the state-run bus 306 that goes to the Terra Cotta warriors, a small party of people intercepted me and told me to buy tickets "over there", pointing back at the private buses. I asked the question to the woman in blue uniform standing *right beside us* and she confirmed that I get the tickets on the bus. She was right there! I supposed she wasn't going to go gunho and stop these people from trying to make a living even if it meant tricking poor confused tourists.

I didn't think of the Terra Cotta warriors as a big deal for me. Certainly not as top priority as they were to syl. A bunch of crumbling gray clay statues, hurray. But if there was one must-do in Xi An it would have to be that. So I was entirely unprepared when I waltzed in to Pit Number 1. Behind a huge screen displaying a brief introduction, my tracks stopped and my eyes popped literally. In---fucken---credible. I said under my breath.

There are no ways to describe the overwhelming feeling with which one is awashed upon entering that room. You hear all about it, how there are 6 thousand soldier statues in pit 1, how they are all modeled after real people, with individual facial structures and palm prints, how old they are and how life sized. But it was entirely something else to witness the whole scene in person. They were more real than a field full of living soldiers. For a moment, I could see before me all the soldiers engaged in bloody battles, all the 72,000 laborers slaving away at the statues and the tomb, the grand plan of the whole burial grounds laid bare, and above them all, emperor Qing overseeing every detail. Twenty two hundred years of history flashed across the eyes of my mind.


One thing I noticed sorely lacking: there were but two guards in the entire pit 1 area. Flashes were going off everywhere, pointedly violating all the signs, but no one was policing it. One particularly nasty guy spat not once, but twice, right INTO the pit itself! Two old english ladies shook their heads at each other. I felt ashamed to be Chinese, to be grouped with people like that.

I wandered all over the place listening on different guides. It was better than hiring one myself. I could hear all different stories. Pit 2 showed some upclose warriors for photographing as well as on going digging process. Pit 3 contained a command center like structure staffed by high ranking clay warriors. Even more fascinating than the warriors were the two bronze chariots unearthed near the Emperor's palatial tomb, displayed in the exhibition hall of TC Museum. The only hands-on exhibit in the whole place demonstrated a replica of the umbrella holder of the imperial chariot, with its complicated design that allows for the perfect east/west tilt in morning and afternoon, double locked latches, and emergency multitasking ability of the umbrella holder as a shield.

Kneeling Archer
	Mid ranking general

Everywhere in the museum, there were proof of great engineering and technological expertise of thq Qing people 2 millennium ago. Like the chromium treatment of the bronze swords found in the hands of the warriors to prevent rusting; the ability to create purple dye on the clay warriors, etc. All the guides were eager to point out how much more advanced the ancient chinese were compared to the rest of the world. Yet no one mentions the greatest irony, how all these superior techniques and knowledge were secreted away to the afterlives of kings and emperors. Look how China destroyed its own priceless relics during the cultural revolution. Look at where China is now, certainly no where near the technological giant it could have been.

	Picture of original pit dug-up

Outside in the gauntlet, I bought a set of 5 warrior replicas for 15Y, after a modest round of bargaining. I knew I could've probably had it for 5, but this costed me enough patience already.

I also made a stop at the actual tomb of the Qing Shi Huang. My aunt's guide article failed to mention how much of a waste of time that was. Due to various reasons like lack of technology and preservation techniques, the actual tomb was not excavated or displayed. The 25Y entrance fee basically let you climb a big mound that supposedly contained his underground afterlife palace, and watch a 2nd rate culture show. I was left to conjure in my head images of his exorborant burial chambers with its rivers of mercury and sun and stars of diamonds and jewels, palace buildings glinting in silver and gold, unspeakable treasures strewn everywhere. No matter what one says, this was an Emperor that outshone all the rest, undeniable in the grandness of all his deeds.

Since I arrived, Xi An had embraced me in two days of fine fall weather, cool and sunny capped with clear blue sky. All good things can't last. By our return the sun was beset with the city's smog, glowing dimly orange. I thought I'd ditch the plan to see the wall and hope for better light tomorrow. Instead I visited the Great Mosque located a few twists away from the nightmarket street.

There was a reason they charge only 12Y entry for this place. If no one told me, I would've perfectly believed this was a buddhist temple that's been robbed of its statues, or the mansion of a great family long faded in its prosperity. Other than the white caps the faithfuls wear, nothing else indicated this as a muslim establishment. Another place that should've had an anti-recommendation on the guide.

At least the quick tour of the Mosque allowed me ample time to get to the Bell Tower to see the bell show. Or what I thought was the bell show which turned out to be an ensemble of ancient instruments. No matter, it was fairly decent anyhow, and I always much liked the Gu Qing instrument.

Tea at Bell Tower	The Bell Show

For dinner I decided on the the big joint next to Tong Sheng Xiang. Dumplings were their specialty, so dumplings I got, along with a Long of crab roe steamed buns. Another table's enoki mushroom looked quite sumptuous too but the restaurant just ran out of that. I would eat the dumplings again, but the steamed buns were definitely no-no. Nothing like our Shanghai Xiao Long Bao. Outside in the plaza I bought a big pouch of Tian Jing chestnuts, hot out of the wok. Best chestnuts yet.


Got a little knicknack I've been seeing around the area (Xun, an oval clay instrument played by ancient people from this area). Picked up my pack. Mailed postcard. Checked email. It was nice to linger in the Shu Yuan hostel, in the cozy comfort of its dining room. When I went walking around the south gate for a few night shots, I discovered a throng of people gathered in the plaza just south of it listening to amateurs playing what appears to be a Shan Xi opera. In the dim light of the red lanterns, one middle-aged man stood firm, singing, accompanied by 5 or 6 guys playing percussion (with a few wood or bamboo plaques), string (er hu I think) and some other instruments. A large crowd gathered around them. Sometimes a few audience would join in the song and sing a few lines in chorus. Unfortunately my presence attracted much too much attention, whether it be my bag or my camera I didn't know.


Tonight I stayed at Shang De hotel for its proximity to the train station. After seeing the hot humid and stuffy single room, I opted for the standard room instead (with bath) for double the price. At 100Y, it was cheaper and appropriately less well-appointed than the Postal Hotel, with barely lukewarm waters.


You Tiao + Soy milk 1Y. Rou Jia Muo 2.5Y. 306 bus roundtrip 8Y. Terra Cotta Museum 90Y. Qing tomb 25Y. Great Mosque 12Y. Dumpling 8 for 15. Crab steamed buns 15 for 9. Chestnuts 10Y. Shang De Hotel 100Y.