Beijing Day 1 - 11.02
The top bunks of our train section were extremely lacking in ventilation. While the corridor and the lower bunks were cool and airy, the tops were much the opposite. I eventually managed to fall asleep at around 10 after making a complaint. I think they fixed it some time in the night.
I woke to some girl singing a fast food song on the train intercom. The only lyrics were "Mcdonalds KFC pizza hut". Subliminal message? Or true love for greasy western junk food?
Got the direction from sinyee to the hostel. The people in beijing weren't any better than elsewhere when you ask them for directions. The bus took over an hour to get from Beijing West train station to the north gate of Bei Hai. This was when one knows one has arrived in the capital. Everything was BIG.
Picking up breakfast food (yes, You Tiao) along the some-what-of-a-walk to the hostel, I settled into the same 4-bed dorm as syl. Back outside, more snack foods. There was a pan-fried glutinous rice dough cake thing with a red bean paste that was quite decent. On the way to the bus stop, we split what was left of my Tian Jing chestnuts, which I saved specifically so syl can try.
107 bus got us to Dong Zhi Men (east straight gate). The streets were chokeful of busses going short and medium distances. 916 got us way out of the city north east to a county called Shu Rou. From there we were immediately hustled into a tiny van car and a country-faced guy drove us out to Mu Tian Yu great wall. The whole thing took us an hour and 15 at least.
The great wall surrounded the beijing area, protecting the ancient capital from barbarians in the old days. There were names for specific sections that were more easily reached or properly maintained for tourist access. Ba Da Ling was the closest to Beijing and most crowded. Mu Tian Yu and Si Ma Tai were two others relatively close to the metropolis.
We got our entrance ticket and cable car lift up for 35 per and each. Past the usual stretch of vendors we entered the cable car, thinking we should've toughened up and took the walking way up. The day was sunny and warm, warmer than Xian or any of the inner cities, but smoggy as hell even out here in the "suburbs" area. Up top, the view was breathtaking.
The wall twisted and wound its way around mountain tops, climbing almost vertically and then diving straight down. The mountain slopes were painted with spectacular fall colors shining gaily under the autumn sun. Sinyee exclaimed excitedly "I can't believe we are on the great wall of china", despite that we have planned this trip all along.
Many foreigners could be seen on the short stretch of wall we hiked. Indians, germans, americans, japanese, a lot of french travelers... As one stone inscription stated quite accurately if not clichely, what used to keep people divided, now unites the people of the world.
The wall itself was nicely restored and easily paced for walking for the most parts (especially for us veterans of Huang Shan). The steepest sections had stairs about knee high. I couldn't remember much from my past trip to Ba Da Ling, but I was fairly sure the view here was much much better. And there were far less people to encumber my picking taking.
We ended up walking past our descend spot and kept going to "the end". Past Mu guard tower number 3, the wall was in their original state of ruin, with dry bushes growing upon the battlement and many parts crumpled off. Beyond Mu tower 2, there were no more walkable trails. But even with the hazy smog we could count the towers on each hill tops to the east, stretching as far as the eyes could see.
Back at tower 5 we bought a tobogan trip down. It was this tiny 3-foot plastic board that slides down a curvy metal ramp, with a stick to push a couple of pads downward for breaking. In the west no establishment could get away with putting live people in a contraption like that with absolutely no protection. Deciding to "live dangerously", we even declined the 1Y insurance fee.
In reality it wasn't even all that fast. I had it on "full throttle" most of the time. Kind of an interesting way to get down from the hills. Mu Tian Yu was convenient in that one could cable up one way, walk a short distance of the wall, and come down to the same parking lot from the other side.
Next stop we went to the tea house syl was at the day before. Named after a famous recent-time literary/poet/philosopher, the Lao She Tea House had these specialty hand rolled tea balls that when steeped, would open up like a flower and reveal some real flower inside. Mine was scented with lily and Osmanthua, syl's with jasmine. Certainly this wasn't something a real tea drinker would do, but it was so unique and smelled heavenly.
Some tea snacks: Wan Dou Huang, a soft sweet pastry pressed out of finely milled yellow pea. Fuo Shou Su, a flake pastry filled with red bean paste and shaped into the hand of a buddha. All foods that used to be served in the imperial court. I thought both were quite good. They had an awesome water pourer who would do these almost kung fu poses with this huge 7 feet long kettle.
The special rolled tea were so cool we decided to get one for everyone back home. Also made everyone's gift equal.
Squeezing through rush-hour subway traffic we got to Yu Quan Lu to meet my aunt and uncle (both of my cousins were busy/out of town) for dinner at Quan Ju De, a chain restaurant famous for its Peking Duck. Now I've never really liked PK duck in beijing, ironically. I thought the shanghainese adaptation was much better. And the last time I went to this very same restaurant I thought their duck was quite the crap.
This time the food had noticeably improved. In addition to a half duck we also got Ya Zhen Gan (duck stomach), Yan Shui Ya Gan (liver), a plate of lotus filled with sticky rice, pickles, and a plate of wine fish fillet. Everything was very tasty including the duck (when coated in copious sauce). They also had a long kettle pourer but he had no fancy moves.
Subway, cab, sleep.
823 bus 4Y. 3 You Tiao + fried red bean pastry 3Y. Milk bag 1.1Y. Downtown Backpacker 1 night 60Y. 107 bus 1Y. 916 bus 6Y. Mini minivan to MuTianYu 25Y 1way. Green tea 3Y. Great Wall entrance 35. Cable car up 35. Toboggan down 40Y. Dried strawberries and peaches 14Y. Subway 3Y. Tea for 2 40x2+11. Gift tea balls 15Y each. Dinner 158 (paid by aunt). Taxi 10 starting fee.
PS: The reason I boycott starbucks: A starbucks INSIDE the Forbidden City
I woke to some girl singing a fast food song on the train intercom. The only lyrics were "Mcdonalds KFC pizza hut". Subliminal message? Or true love for greasy western junk food?
Got the direction from sinyee to the hostel. The people in beijing weren't any better than elsewhere when you ask them for directions. The bus took over an hour to get from Beijing West train station to the north gate of Bei Hai. This was when one knows one has arrived in the capital. Everything was BIG.
Picking up breakfast food (yes, You Tiao) along the some-what-of-a-walk to the hostel, I settled into the same 4-bed dorm as syl. Back outside, more snack foods. There was a pan-fried glutinous rice dough cake thing with a red bean paste that was quite decent. On the way to the bus stop, we split what was left of my Tian Jing chestnuts, which I saved specifically so syl can try.
 The "Hu Tong" of our hostel |  |
107 bus got us to Dong Zhi Men (east straight gate). The streets were chokeful of busses going short and medium distances. 916 got us way out of the city north east to a county called Shu Rou. From there we were immediately hustled into a tiny van car and a country-faced guy drove us out to Mu Tian Yu great wall. The whole thing took us an hour and 15 at least.
The great wall surrounded the beijing area, protecting the ancient capital from barbarians in the old days. There were names for specific sections that were more easily reached or properly maintained for tourist access. Ba Da Ling was the closest to Beijing and most crowded. Mu Tian Yu and Si Ma Tai were two others relatively close to the metropolis.
We got our entrance ticket and cable car lift up for 35 per and each. Past the usual stretch of vendors we entered the cable car, thinking we should've toughened up and took the walking way up. The day was sunny and warm, warmer than Xian or any of the inner cities, but smoggy as hell even out here in the "suburbs" area. Up top, the view was breathtaking.
 Syl has dreamt of the Wall for so long |  Guard Tower |
 |  |
The wall twisted and wound its way around mountain tops, climbing almost vertically and then diving straight down. The mountain slopes were painted with spectacular fall colors shining gaily under the autumn sun. Sinyee exclaimed excitedly "I can't believe we are on the great wall of china", despite that we have planned this trip all along.
Many foreigners could be seen on the short stretch of wall we hiked. Indians, germans, americans, japanese, a lot of french travelers... As one stone inscription stated quite accurately if not clichely, what used to keep people divided, now unites the people of the world.
The wall itself was nicely restored and easily paced for walking for the most parts (especially for us veterans of Huang Shan). The steepest sections had stairs about knee high. I couldn't remember much from my past trip to Ba Da Ling, but I was fairly sure the view here was much much better. And there were far less people to encumber my picking taking.
 HuangShan veteran taking a stroll |  Buddha statue in an alcove |
We ended up walking past our descend spot and kept going to "the end". Past Mu guard tower number 3, the wall was in their original state of ruin, with dry bushes growing upon the battlement and many parts crumpled off. Beyond Mu tower 2, there were no more walkable trails. But even with the hazy smog we could count the towers on each hill tops to the east, stretching as far as the eyes could see.
 |  |
 |  |
Back at tower 5 we bought a tobogan trip down. It was this tiny 3-foot plastic board that slides down a curvy metal ramp, with a stick to push a couple of pads downward for breaking. In the west no establishment could get away with putting live people in a contraption like that with absolutely no protection. Deciding to "live dangerously", we even declined the 1Y insurance fee.
In reality it wasn't even all that fast. I had it on "full throttle" most of the time. Kind of an interesting way to get down from the hills. Mu Tian Yu was convenient in that one could cable up one way, walk a short distance of the wall, and come down to the same parking lot from the other side.
Next stop we went to the tea house syl was at the day before. Named after a famous recent-time literary/poet/philosopher, the Lao She Tea House had these specialty hand rolled tea balls that when steeped, would open up like a flower and reveal some real flower inside. Mine was scented with lily and Osmanthua, syl's with jasmine. Certainly this wasn't something a real tea drinker would do, but it was so unique and smelled heavenly.
 Smoggy city sunset |  Teahouse Entrance |
 Teahouse Entertainment |  Special "Flower" Tea |
Some tea snacks: Wan Dou Huang, a soft sweet pastry pressed out of finely milled yellow pea. Fuo Shou Su, a flake pastry filled with red bean paste and shaped into the hand of a buddha. All foods that used to be served in the imperial court. I thought both were quite good. They had an awesome water pourer who would do these almost kung fu poses with this huge 7 feet long kettle.
 |  |
The special rolled tea were so cool we decided to get one for everyone back home. Also made everyone's gift equal.
Squeezing through rush-hour subway traffic we got to Yu Quan Lu to meet my aunt and uncle (both of my cousins were busy/out of town) for dinner at Quan Ju De, a chain restaurant famous for its Peking Duck. Now I've never really liked PK duck in beijing, ironically. I thought the shanghainese adaptation was much better. And the last time I went to this very same restaurant I thought their duck was quite the crap.
This time the food had noticeably improved. In addition to a half duck we also got Ya Zhen Gan (duck stomach), Yan Shui Ya Gan (liver), a plate of lotus filled with sticky rice, pickles, and a plate of wine fish fillet. Everything was very tasty including the duck (when coated in copious sauce). They also had a long kettle pourer but he had no fancy moves.
Subway, cab, sleep.
823 bus 4Y. 3 You Tiao + fried red bean pastry 3Y. Milk bag 1.1Y. Downtown Backpacker 1 night 60Y. 107 bus 1Y. 916 bus 6Y. Mini minivan to MuTianYu 25Y 1way. Green tea 3Y. Great Wall entrance 35. Cable car up 35. Toboggan down 40Y. Dried strawberries and peaches 14Y. Subway 3Y. Tea for 2 40x2+11. Gift tea balls 15Y each. Dinner 158 (paid by aunt). Taxi 10 starting fee.
PS: The reason I boycott starbucks: A starbucks INSIDE the Forbidden City
posted by Billy at
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1 comments:
ew. starbucks. i don't like starbucks. esp. when i found out there was one inside the forbidden city. i thought it was disgusting when i went up on that hill behind the FOrbidden Palace, zoomed in to the forbidden palace with the camera and saw the golden arches of a giant mcdonald's sign in amongst the smog of beijing. but this, this is more disgusting. INSIDE???
toboggan ride! my friend went to china for a dragonboat festival, and u two had similar beijing experiences - he also didn't go to Badaling, and he also took a toboggan ride down.
by
munkee, at 3:57 PM
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